Monday 25 January 2010

A Familiar Face In Shanghai


Against all odds, the sleeper train from Hong Kong to Shanghai, via the unsmiling faces of both the Hong Kong and Chinese Immigration authorities, was completed without delay or disturbance. My only mild dissatisfaction arose from discovering that the meagerly-priced rice meal I bought on board included barbecued rooster's feet and a 'fertilised' boiled egg (you could see the partially developed foetus within the yolk) which I consumed both hungrily and with little hesitation. Both items tasted like chicken. My carriage, holding hostage my backpack and my propensity for rest, was made up of only a sweet elderly Chinese couple who gave me little to threat about. I grew very fond of them during our sign language conversations and I was a little upset as the express train's rusty doors opened and released them from my view for ever.





I was welcomed with a bitterly cold arctic chill and the angry grey clouds spat out their disapproval of my arrival with infrequent bullets of rain. To add to my misery, I had the morning and afternoon to dispose of before meeting with my friend Rob, whom I would be staying with. My knuckles began to bare the white teeth marks of the icy air as I chose to walk a few kilometres to a homestay I had read about online in order to leave my bags and relieve the sinews of muscle (and there's a lot to go round) on my shoulders. As I finally located the entrance, deep inside an ugly concrete tower block, I was welcomed in to the reception area by a half dressed gentleman with questionable intentions. I peered nervously down the corridor to discover only two rooms, one of which was a dank lavatory, the other a large open space with around half a dozen mattresses clumsily laid on the worn carpet like cushioned stepping stones. A pale middle aged lady, her soil brown roots showing from her bleached hair, sat alone on a spring-less chair, with only a suggestive gown to compose her limp modesty. There was the faint musk of incense and dense body odour as a cat sat aloof on top of an open suitcase. It was in my best interest to escape this sodden harem and so I ran away like a coward.


The old girls get warmed up for the 2010 World Expo

Shanghai strains the neck and leaves the feet free to explore. The skyline is littered with the steely muscle of numerous masculine high rise offices. There is little of the subtle beauty found in the architecture of Manhattan or Hong Kong Island. It is the embodiment of the advanced and modern world that the jealous Western world only whisper about. The ancient Terracotta Army of Xi'an paving way for this urgently built cluster of looming and intimidating towers. Shanghai also has a glorious and illustrious recent history. Within the annals, the City's unique legacy can be found rooted in the year 2005, when it hosted the World Toilet Expo and Forum. Jack Sims, the World Toilet Foundation's official, explained to the Shanghai Forum that 'Our happiness cannot be complete without a proper and pleasant toilet environment.' When have so little words encapsulated everything that we cherish so dearly here in the Twenty First Century?

www.worldtoiletevents.com/



Have you seen this man's baseball?

I've spent the first few days here mostly in the womb like warmth of cafes and the impressively decorated and lit Shanghai Museum. On one of my 'afternoon treats' I lunged into a Patisserie and in one hand held a banana muffin (bit stodgy, still ate it all though) and in the other I flicked through the crisp pages of the Shanghai Weekly. On reading, rather thoroughly I may add, the 'Personals' section (it can't help but make you unsure of the sanity of certain individuals in the human race) I came across this wonderful little advert. Ladies, be sure to call our plaster cast friend soon before his little black book becomes nothing but an inky Rorschach of numbers and names.



It had been some five or so years since I had last seen my friend Rob, whom I worked with during my University years and played copious amounts of football with for many tiresomely bleak Sheffield weekday evenings. On finally seeing him emerge from his office building in Hua Hui Lu, we greeted each other in only the way that was appropriate - in fits of laughter at the absurdity of our situation and with our famous urban tinged high-five. He's come a long way since our call centre days. As have I. AS HAVE I. For the first time on this journey through these Continents I wish to explore, I had a local tour guide at my disposal to unfold the weaving mysteries of an area and culture. The most rewarding insider knowledge that Rob and his girlfriend Stacy had kindly informed me of was that you can get a McDonald's meal delivered to your door 24 hours a day. This may or may not have been taken advantage of on Saturday night after a meandering evening bar hopping in the French Concession area.

The weekend here was idyllic in its routine. We enjoyed a delicious Korean meal at a restaurant named Pankoo - "Pankoo very much!" I beamed at my hosts as the bill was taken care of. They wisely decided not to respond to my awkward toast. Prior to that we took Rob's two Beagles; Lucy (sad eyes, protective) and Yuki (hyper-active and attention seeking) for a brisk walk followed by a full oil body massage (Calf muscle....torn. Complimentary banana at the conclusion = forgiven masseuse).


Yuki, the one looking at you, bullied me on our walk

Shanghai Song of the Day: Backstreet Boys - I Want It That Way
I defy anyone who doesn't actually enjoy this song. Kevin, Nick, A.J., Howie and Brian harmonise like fallen angels on this classic. They deserve their own private jet from the video on this form. They've not been the same since bushy-eyebrowed Kevin Richardson left the ranks in 2006.

Get some closure on Kev: http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1229211/goodbye_kevin_richardson/

You know you want to hear the song too: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DwkMDMUgg8

i-Pod Song of the Day: Vampire Weekend - Holiday
From the new album Contra, which is on the list to upload. This song is pretty cool, summery and not a huge departure from their African-beat inspired debut album.

http://www.vampireweekend.com/

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